Monday, October 16, 2006
Vox Populi
Last Thursday I was fortunate enough to enjoy a lovely preview of Vox Populi's fall menu, an assortment of eclectic, hearty small plates and creative entrees that nicely complement chilly evenings and leaf-lined streets.It's essential that you drink before you dine at Vox. Their feisty cocktails have always attracted scores of business professionals and gal pal groups and for good reason. The French Kiss martini (vodka, chambord, pineapple and cranberry juice with champagne; $10) was all refreshing fizzy sweetness, and Ariel raved about her Tokyo Tea (Furki sake with lemoncello, lemon juice, and a "splash" of coke; $10). Seasonal drinks keep the libation menu energized; the Pumpkin Mojito (see below) is a welcome light precursor to heavier, autumn fare.

Indecisive diners appreciate executive chef Eric Bogardus' small plates, pint-sized versions of larger, extravagant dishes. Perennial favorites like the Chicken Lollipops (with soy, ginger & honey) again appear on the menu this fall, but the Lobster Melt on on brioche with gruyere and the creamy Pumpkin Risotto, delicately served in its own tiny (edible) squash make an impressive debut appearance. The pumpkin risotto was a particular favorite of mine, as the arborio rice was cooked to perfect consistency and playful cinnamon overtones livened up the traditional risotto.
More sedate and/or initimate parties opt often for Vox's delicate appetizers and bold entrees, which though as delicious as the small plates, lend themselves more to committed diners who want devote time and energy to a course. Don't giggle too much when your graceful server sets the Fuming Quail before you; the precious baby quail wing sitting over its own miniature cast-iron skillet is two bites of smoked, savory meat and crispy skin.

The accompanying speckled heart grits add a smoothness that nicely off sets the more coarse texture of the bird.
Notable entrees include the BBQ Bass with potato lyonnaise cucumber strings and the Bolognese Pasta. No clio portions here: Vox wants its patrons to eat, drink, and be merry and the sizable entrees reflect this wish. Cutesy desserts like Apple Beignets and warm Pineapple
Upside Down cake are reminscient of something you'd pick up from welcoming small town bakery. The delicately constructed desserts inspire equally refined consumption, and each small bite you take resonates with delicious simplicity.Vox's Boylston location makes it a "hotspot" for after work young professionals but the more demure upstairs is ideal for a quiet dinner. I aim to spend at least a few brisk November nights at Vox sipping martinis and supping pumpkin risotto out of my very own gourd.
The Info
Vox Populi
755 Boylston Street
www.voxboston.com
