I love Union Bar and Grille. Bunches and I dined there last night for Valentine's Day, and I must admit, even his adorable hazel eyes couldn't keep me from being smitten by the food. And the service. And the atmosphere. Forgive me, my love.
Union became my favorite restaurant after I reviewed it a few years ago for another gig and since then I've dragged I could to eat there with me. At first glance, Union may not distinguish itself from other fruffy, bobo Boston restaurants. The location is the trendy South End, the atmosphere dark and chic (cast-iron lighting fixtures and black leather), and the menu gourmet comfort food with the requisite duck, salmon, and tenderloin features. Union, however, deserves special accolades because everything is twice as good as you expect, even for the high prices. The chef and staff could get away with less, but they don't, and three years after my first visit, they're still not resting on their laurels.
Service, to begin with, is impeccable. Last night we arrived ten minutes early for our reservation but were seated immediately, just after the hostess gracefully took our coats and my over-sized workbag. Our server was kind and quick, two virtues which don't often go hand-in-hand in the food industry. Our drinks orders (pomegranate martini and gin martini) were taken very shortly after we sat down and served along with a pan of hot cornbread within five minutes. The entrees and appetizer orders were handled in similar prompt fashion. Throughout the entire meal, the server and busboy were remarkably attentive, keeping careful watch on our table without hovering or rushing anything. When I spilled my martini (twice) on the pristine white tablecloth, giving it a festive pink hue, the server was right now with a forgiving smile and a fresh pair of napkins with which he delicately cleaned the stem of my glass.
And, of course, the food was fantastic. No gigantic portions here, but even the glutton in me was satisfied because everything is so rich in flavor that eating another ounce would be cloying. Last night Union featured a special Valentine's menu with elegant twists on some of their usual favorites. For an appetizers I ordered flaked cod and potato cakes with a remoulade and lobster salad. The cakes seemed to melt in my mouth, much enhanced by the spicy remoulade, and complemented nicely by the tender, chilled lobster. My entree was equally divine: grilled smoked duck breast with a bacon and onion tart and winter greens. A sweet orange gastrique was swirled flirtaciously around the duck and provided a nice contrast to its rich, smoked flavor. Bunches raved over his tuna with fennel and arugula, the Union speciality, and generously offered me a small bite. It was perfectly cooked, and by that I mean, hardly at all: lightly seared on either side with a warm, tender pink middle. No dessert this time, as we had other plans, but in the past, I've lingered over their homemade sorbets and ice creams (midori, earl grey, mango) and creme brulee.
At the end of the meal Union had won my heart again. In a token of its own admiration, Union offered me (and all other adoring customers that night) two complimentary truffles. Oh, I swoon.
The Info
Union Bar and Grille
1357 Washington St., Boston
www.unionrestaurant.com
